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E-Series Vans | Forum profile
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Forum profile page for E-Series Vans on http://www.thedieselstop.com.
This report page is the aggregated overview from a single forum: E-Series Vans, located on the Message Board at http://www.thedieselstop.com.
This forum profile page summarizes the general forum statistics such as: Users Activity, Forum Activity, and Top Authors, which are reported in either a table or graph below for a given reporting time period.
Additional forum profile information for "E-Series Vans" on the Message Board at http://www.thedieselstop.com is also shown in the following ways:
1) Latest Active Threads
2) Hot Threads for Last Week
Warning: These statistics are generated using 'best efforts' and can experience delays and reporting errors at times. Please note that such statistics do not constitute a forum's popularity and/or exact posting volumes at any given reporting period.
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Posting activity on E-Series Vans:
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Week
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Month
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3 Months
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Threads:
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60
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140
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359
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Post:
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159
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369
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970
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E-Series Vans Posting activity graph:
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Top authors during last week:
user's latest post:
mag-hytec diff covers?
Published (2009-11-26 14:17:00)
I have the Mag-Hytak. I'm happy with it. I have no idea what temps were before the cover, but they are very reasonable now. FWIW - speed has a bigger affect on diff temp than how much I"m towing. I got the Dana 70 cover, but my van came with the Dana 70. I have a Hellwig CLass C motorhome sway bar. It is possible for them to conflict, if the Hellwig axle brackets are not oriented corrently (should be clocked towards the rear of...
user's latest post:
ipr valve
Published (2009-11-26 20:23:00)
Thanks guys, I appreciate the responses. Now, what exactly does it do? And sitting on the back of the HPOP where I can't see it too well, what does it look like? As you know, space is very limited and visuals is not too good either. I'm not going to attempt any further diagnostics/repairs but I'd like to know just for my own satisfaction. I'm having it towed in to Ford Truck in Buda, TX tomorrow morning. This will be my...
user's latest post:
Insurance agent insists I can...
Published (2009-11-25 21:30:00)
oh crap I only read now that you are in the soviet union. Well maybe things are different out there. The bad news is Cali is coming to the rest of us very soon.
user's latest post:
I have a serious door lock problem
Published (2009-11-27 14:50:00)
I pulled the fuse for the door locks and the door windows in the fuse box by the brake peddle. I can no longer lock my van or use the power windows but I can't be locked out either unless we lock all three doors after getting out or lock the side door from the inside and the back door from the inside and then go out the drivers door and push it's lock down too. -- Not likely to happen, especially when we know what a nightmare it is...
user's latest post:
ipr valve
Published (2009-11-26 15:58:00)
It is on the back of the HPOP resevoir towards the drivers side. It is quite low spo it is impossible to see or get at from the top. You need to take off the dog house and get at it from the passenger's side. You will need 1 1/8 Deep socket . Sears Craftsman works the best since they are a bit longer. Check if the aluminium nut is tight and if it is connected. If you decide to remove it you will need to drain the HPOP resevoir through the...
user's latest post:
HELP PLEASE! #8 Fuse Keeps...
Published (2009-11-27 08:19:00)
On a 97 e 350, #8 is the circuit for glow plug relay, pcm relay, and fuel heater. Fuse position 22 is vacant. __________________ 2003 E-350 7.3, 38R, DIY intake, 4" turbo back, Swamps Tunes, forged rods, exhaust ported heads, comp 910's, h-11's, stealth twin pumps, 300cc hybrids, racerx trans and tc, water injection
user's latest post:
Side doors won't stay latched
Published (2009-11-24 19:10:00)
On my van the small door has to be slammed to get it completely closed. Then everything works ok, otherwise it gets loose and rattles like crazy. Mike
user's latest post:
Side doors won't stay latched
Published (2009-11-25 00:39:00)
Quote: Originally Posted by Premier Kirby funny you have a problem with that as a friend of mine pointed out to me that the white plastic on my side door jam (the latching mechanism) was worn away on my 08 e-350. I could have had the dealer replace it but again I didnt want them screwing up something when my door still works fine. ( I was under warranty at the time) since yours is a 07 if you have less then 36,000 miles on it then you can...
user's latest post:
hard to start when cold
Published (2009-11-23 21:54:00)
Quote: Originally Posted by vanboy its alive!!! and starts when cold! injector shop said my o rings were leaking and i had a few bad plungers. at any rate all is well. thanks to all for the reply's. kaliburz; you have three diesel vans....... i feel your pain. cheers At least you got yours solved! Not sure if the later instructions stated it, but on the visor on my 1990, it says to push the peddle 1/2 for above 32F and for under 32F push...
user's latest post:
Overhead console
Published (2009-11-26 09:22:00)
I remember seeing a thread about an overhead console for the e-series, but can't find it in the archives. I think it mounted to the visor mounts, then the visors mounted below the console. Anybody able to point me to where to get this thing?
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Latest active threads on E-Series Vans::
Started 1 day, 13 hours ago (2009-11-28 00:14:00)
by carringb
Started 3 days, 17 hours ago (2009-11-25 19:47:00)
by carringb
Easy. Switch insurance companies. If you've been with the same one for a
really long time, there's a good chance you'll save $ too.
Started 2 days, 17 hours ago (2009-11-26 20:24:00)
by rpm1
I would be willing to bet that your fuel bowl heater has broke/shorted. Unplug it and you should be good to go. Replace the heater element or just leave it unplugged. It's not really necessary.
Started 8 months, 2 weeks ago (2009-03-18 17:27:00)
by blageurt
You have to remove the Driver's Battery and loosen the degas Coolant bottle to get it out . . .
Started 1 day ago (2009-11-28 13:19:00)
by saline
Battery light (intermittant)
I have a loose connection somewhere and for the life of me I can't figure out where it is.
Symptom: When going over bumps or on dirt the battery light flickers constantly. Even over long drives I am not gettng a good charge on the 2 starting batteries or the house battery. When the light is on the voltage meter...
Started 3 days, 4 hours ago (2009-11-26 09:22:00)
by 505Live
Overhead console
I remember seeing a thread about an overhead console for the e-series, but can't find it in the archives. I think it mounted to the visor mounts, then the visors mounted below the console.
Anybody able to point me to where to get this thing?
__________________
2003 E350 ...
Started 1 day, 7 hours ago (2009-11-28 05:57:00)
by midwestconnection
I got fuel dripping out of my valley, how do we see where it's coming from in a van?
Everybody says to look at the fuel pump and the filter can and water drain o-rings and connecting hoses here and there but how to we do that on a van when we can't see anything?
I can get the back heat shield off and the front breather intake shroud off ...
Started 1 week, 6 days ago (2009-11-16 04:48:00)
by txevt
hmm, disconnect the power lock linkage for each door. check the door locks
manually and see if they work, if not replace the key lock itself.
typically when the door lock actuators go bad, it creates havoc locking and
unlocking with a key, remote, or keyless entry with just about any ford.
Started 3 days, 18 hours ago (2009-11-25 19:11:00)
by blageurt
If you Tow as much as you say I would go for it . . .
Started 2 days, 21 hours ago (2009-11-26 15:58:00)
by blageurt
It is on the back of the HPOP resevoir towards the drivers side. It is quite low spo it is impossible to see or get at from the top. You need to take off the dog house and get at it from the passenger's side. You will need 1 1/8 Deep socket . Sears Craftsman works the best since they are a bit longer. Check if the aluminium nut is tight and if it is connected. If you decide to remove it you ...
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Hot threads for last week on E-Series Vans::
Started 2 days, 17 hours ago (2009-11-26 20:24:00)
by rpm1
I would be willing to bet that your fuel bowl heater has broke/shorted. Unplug it and you should be good to go. Replace the heater element or just leave it unplugged. It's not really necessary.
Started 3 days, 17 hours ago (2009-11-25 19:47:00)
by carringb
Easy. Switch insurance companies. If you've been with the same one for a
really long time, there's a good chance you'll save $ too.
Started 1 day, 13 hours ago (2009-11-28 00:14:00)
by carringb
Started 3 days, 19 hours ago (2009-11-25 18:07:00)
by rpm1
If you buy a scanner, you need one that will do powerstrokes. Most will not. Autoenginuity is a good one. The ses light comes on when you turn the key on, but then goes off normally. Does yours stay on? Have a spare cps you could try?
Started 5 days, 11 hours ago (2009-11-24 01:37:00)
by carringb
I had to adjust the striker outward a little bit (had the same problem on my '94). It was tight enough it wasn't actually allowing the final stage to latch fully.
Also a little resilient lube (like lithium grease spray) will help it latch fully.
Started 3 days, 18 hours ago (2009-11-25 19:11:00)
by blageurt
If you Tow as much as you say I would go for it . . .
Started 1 week, 6 days ago (2009-11-16 04:48:00)
by txevt
hmm, disconnect the power lock linkage for each door. check the door locks
manually and see if they work, if not replace the key lock itself.
typically when the door lock actuators go bad, it creates havoc locking and
unlocking with a key, remote, or keyless entry with just about any ford.
Started 2 weeks, 1 day ago (2009-11-14 09:13:00)
by midwestconnection
Good question, I would like to know this myself.
You should put the year range you are interested in though. Makes a lot of difference.
I'm interested in 1994 to 1997 myself. Those are the ones I can buy and the ones I like the best both.
Started 1 week ago (2009-11-21 23:19:00)
by bugman
I can't help you very much since I am here in Colorado but here is a link to the HELP NETWORK it is at least a few years old but I do know that Dave in Tulsa is still on the forums here so you may want to pm him or give him a call. Also you may want to pm member 444-4D he is also in Tulsa but may know of someone for you to contact.
Started 1 day ago (2009-11-28 13:19:00)
by saline
Battery light (intermittant)
I have a loose connection somewhere and for the life of me I can't figure out where it is.
Symptom: When going over bumps or on dirt the battery light flickers constantly. Even over long drives I am not gettng a good charge on the 2 starting batteries or the house battery. When the light is on the voltage meter...
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