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7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes) | Forum profile
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Forum profile page for 7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes) on http://www.thedieselstop.com.
This report page is the aggregated overview from a single forum: 7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes), located on the Message Board at http://www.thedieselstop.com.
This forum profile page summarizes the general forum statistics such as: Users Activity, Forum Activity, and Top Authors, which are reported in either a table or graph below for a given reporting time period.
Additional forum profile information for "7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes)" on the Message Board at http://www.thedieselstop.com is also shown in the following ways:
1) Latest Active Threads
2) Hot Threads for Last Week
Warning: These statistics are generated using 'best efforts' and can experience delays and reporting errors at times. Please note that such statistics do not constitute a forum's popularity and/or exact posting volumes at any given reporting period.
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Posting activity on 7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes):
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Week
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Month
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3 Months
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Threads:
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164
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509
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1,490
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Post:
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560
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1,705
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5,234
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7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes) Posting activity graph:
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Top authors during last week:
user's latest post:
soft brake pedal! - Page 3 -...
Published (2009-11-28 19:37:00)
Hey vinnie, FWIW Kragens on-line shows a RABS valve assembly. About $150.00
user's latest post:
7.3 troubles
Published (2009-11-28 16:12:00)
Read up on air in the system.........clear hose tests. Ford diesel 6.9 7.3 IDI
user's latest post:
electic fan
Published (2009-11-27 16:18:00)
None. It's been discussed before, the only e-fan that seems to work for these engines is two factory Lincoln Mark VIII fans assemblies side by side, and only if you have the 37" wide radiator, and this setup is only used by a handful of people. Why do you want an e-fan, what do you expect to gain from it? I have a locked factory fan in my truck, she makes sounds like a fling-wing at dust-off, but she still gets 20mpg and stays...
user's latest post:
antifreeze change
Published (2009-11-28 10:13:00)
If you didn't drain the block you are probably good, if you did drain the block you haven't bled the system properly.
user's latest post:
What batteries are best for the...
Published (2009-11-26 08:59:00)
Quote: Originally Posted by deere55 i have optima deep cycles on mine Optimas are great batteries. but the biggest downfall is their price. Very expensive compared to a Costco or the like.
user's latest post:
Cab Mount Bushings!!!
Published (2009-11-28 19:20:00)
Thanks, that's fine by me, that's why I posted it. __________________ 1990 F350 2wd DRW Super Cab E4OD 7.3l IDI Gooseneck hitch, Flowmaster (single inlet/dual out), 60 gal tank/toolbox/bedrails/headache rack (custom built, welded together as 1 unit)
user's latest post:
Engine install/removal
Published (2009-11-24 16:24:00)
Okay, a few more observations that I made while looking at an engine removal guide from CDRNSGUY's photo archive There were a few key steps that I didn't know if I had to do. 1. Does the AC need to be depressurized when I remove the engine? 2. Do automatics have Transmission Kick down rods? or is this a 2wd vs 4wd thing? 3. In removing the Transmission to Engine mounting bolts, do I have to remove the Bell housing to get at them? 4....
user's latest post:
electric fuel pump
Published (2009-11-26 20:07:00)
Don't get a Holley pump. They are not really made for continuous duty IMO. I've gone through two in my van although I admit I run fuel blends. But I've had trouble in the past with them on various race and street cars. Right now I've got the electric lift pump from a '97 Hummer and so far it's been great. It's also cheaper, $52 at autozone but you need two special fittings to hook it up. If you want more info...
user's latest post:
missed the idi
Published (2009-11-21 17:39:00)
H&H diesel in Fife, WA has a good reputation. __________________ 1994 E350 (crewcab, flatbed dump) 7.3 IDI
user's latest post:
Custom Exhaust
Published (2009-11-25 12:25:00)
got all of mine from summit. good prices too. fit together very well also. __________________ 7.3 IDI F-350 4x4 1990 100k miles -Custom: '92 interior; Banks Y Pipe, 4" glasspack to Dual 4.25" Stacks -Reman'd: Heavy Duty E4OD and Billet Converter; Transfer Case; Water pump; Power Steering pump; Steering Box; Denso Starter -New: Brakes; Engine seals and oil pan; Oil pump; RUST-FREE Cab and Bed -Pro Comp...
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Latest active threads on 7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes)::
Started 6 months, 2 weeks ago (2009-05-13 23:51:00)
by cdnsarguy
Could be the sender is worn out....... try Rock auto for a new one.
Here are the fuel guage test #s
22 ohms sent to the guage it reads empty "E"
145 ohm sent to the guage it reads full "F"
Here are the sender test #s
Sender at empty stop 14-18 ohms
Sender at full stop 154-162 ohms
Started 6 months, 2 weeks ago (2009-05-20 12:56:00)
by jmono
Is it turboed? There isn't really much you can do to these trucks. If you
are towing up hills and real heavy I would swap a 6bt in there. That's what
I'm going to do once I manage to break 300hp if I can. I am going to see
where timing, injection pump work, injectors, turbo, intercooler, and maybe
water meth get me.
Started 2 days, 5 hours ago (2009-11-28 14:11:00)
by 91 ford
head gasket questions
Started putting the motor back together today. I lined the old head gaskets up to the new one to be sure that they were right (been there, long story). I noticed that the water jackets on the intake side of the gasket between the cylinders there is an 1/8" hole where there should be an 3/4" or there abouts hole for ...
Started 5 months, 1 week ago (2009-06-25 21:08:00)
by chuckster57
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snotzalot
Above the starter is a block drain, after draining the radiator, remove this plug to drain the engine.
I forgot that part of the change...was dealing with other projects at the same time. and now I have a Vacum pump with nasty sounding bearings...Oh well just MORE to do before...
Started 1 day, 7 hours ago (2009-11-29 12:31:00)
by chuckster57
Do you have the 3" outlet housing allready? I thought ATS still made the parts.
Started 6 months ago (2009-05-31 18:44:00)
by jeffgordon24
does it not atteris start up right away after turning it off or after a while . If it is after a while you might have a drain on the batteries or a dead battery,
Started 3 weeks, 1 day ago (2009-11-08 12:21:00)
by DragRag
Sounds like some of those new glow plugs are not working. Did you use
motorcraft/beru plugs?
Started 1 day, 8 hours ago (2009-11-29 10:58:00)
by cdnsarguy
Check my photo link the torque specs are there..... if what you want is not
listed you must use the standard bolt torques at the end if the list.
Remember some bolts go to the block others to the adapter only (aluminum)
Started 1 year, 1 month ago (2008-10-31 19:11:00)
by cdnsarguy
Apply brakes very slowly several times while observing the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir.
NOTE:
Master cylinder bypass typically occurs when the brakes are applied very slowly and line pressures are low. A "hard" apply can flare the internal lip seals out and result in a passing test where the concern may in fact be valid.
Does the level remain the same?
Yes
Bad ...
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Hot threads for last week on 7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes)::
Started 5 days, 23 hours ago (2009-11-24 20:36:00)
by Snotzalot
A fluid leak of a drop per mile is a quart per thousand so figure how many qts of trans fluid you will need. Any tire store can sell you a new wheel as well as most junk yards.
Weak shifts, check the FIPL/TPS.
Started 1 week, 2 days ago (2009-11-21 12:22:00)
by chuckster57
I have two Costco batteries in my truck. Important thing to remember is 850
CCA min. and clean the cable ends.
Started 1 week, 2 days ago (2009-11-21 12:23:00)
by DieselDually1993
Hi there,
So I found an alternative to digging into my truck that seems almost too good to be true.
Backstory:
I found a guy not too far from me selling his 88 7.3 idi for 350. Supposedly it has 120k and ran when he pulled it. He pulled it because he was developing a miss to what he chased down as a failing IP. He said it was easier to pull his engine and put in one from a ...
Started 6 months, 2 weeks ago (2009-05-13 23:51:00)
by cdnsarguy
Could be the sender is worn out....... try Rock auto for a new one.
Here are the fuel guage test #s
22 ohms sent to the guage it reads empty "E"
145 ohm sent to the guage it reads full "F"
Here are the sender test #s
Sender at empty stop 14-18 ohms
Sender at full stop 154-162 ohms
Started 1 week, 2 days ago (2009-11-21 12:13:00)
by earlkarboviak
I have had to replace the resistor for the fan speed control on the same 1993 ford F 250 that I had the heat not working on, several times. Is there something I should be looking at that makes this happen or should I replace the fan motor?
Started 3 days, 21 hours ago (2009-11-26 22:06:00)
by Evel486
The clicking you hear is probably the glowplug relay, not the pump. The injection pump rarely causes hard cold starts (more often hard hot starts). To verify it isn't clicking disconnect the solenoid and run a wire from the pos battery terminal to the inj pump and try to start.
BTW- if you are getting smoke out the tailpipe when cranking, the inj pump is pumping fuel. Go over your wiring of the ...
Started 6 months ago (2009-06-02 12:27:00)
by 7.3L F-250
what year is your truck to start with
Started 6 days, 20 hours ago (2009-11-23 22:58:00)
by pontoonrob
Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselDually1993
Is it necessary to remove the hood when you remove engines?
Oh Yea, You are going to have to remove the hood. That 1100 lb engine is going to have clear the radiator support. Its kind of spooky having the engine that high.Get a good lift!!If you don't want ...
Started 4 months, 1 week ago (2009-07-21 23:49:00)
by cdnsarguy
Here is how to....
First disconnect steel injector line cap nuts, " do not bend lines" but move them away individually enough to just get the return line caps off as a complete set per side.
After removal of the complete return cap and lines sets, build new sets identical. To remove old orings use a dental or oring pick with a razor knife, do not mark the injector body. When installing orings ...
Started 1 week, 5 days ago (2009-11-18 11:11:00)
by osufireman
Re-gearing your truck does seem like the cheapest option, next to installing a E4OD with all its TCM and wiring harness.
There should be an axle code in the door tag on the driver side, if you still have the owners manual you can look it up, or post it up here and I'm sure someone can help you figure it out. Or, look at the ID tag on the rear pumpkin.
Is the truck 4x4? If so you will need ...
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