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Should be easy enough, have a look at the previous thread here in building for some pics of what might need to be done. £15 to £25k depending on spec/requirements.

Hi you want to use hydraulic lime in a mix 1 : 4. If you troweling it in, which is probably the best way to do it, you need quite a stiff mix that should be easy to compress in your hand and easy to break up back into a mix. once you trowel it in you can finish it with a piece of batton cut at 45 degrees to get a flush finish then leave it half hour or so and stiff brush it off. they ...

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The bubbles etc you describe sounds like salts contamination to the wall,they draw water content from the air [efflorescense] and react as you have descibed and yes it probably is a result of rising damp.You would need a competent person with a Protimeter to survey the areas to determine this and to what extent it has got to. Chimney's, especially back to back,are notorious for damp problems ...

is it under the window or in the corner of the reveal.any pics???

No one?

Replacing is the only sensible course of action. The rot can set deeper into the timber than any brush or spray on treatment can penetrate. You don't need to replace the whole timber but need to cut back up to 500mm (IIRC) from the affected area with pre-treated timber, then treat the old good bit as well.

If the only thing these pillars are supporting are floor it should be ok. theres a settlement issue but generally only with big loads i.e. masonry. A bigger worry is what are the pillars built on?

Your right that you don’t need marine grade ply, WBP will work just as well. It's similarly constructed but doesn’t look so nice but as you’re covering it up anyway, it doesn’t matter. IMO overboading requires minimum 12mm but some will say you need 15mm (which you can’t get) so it’s up to 18mm; others will say you can get away with 6mm but don’t believe them. IMO replacement boarding requires a...

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Form a new 100mm stud wall against the inner face of the existing wall. You are best using foam board insulation, i.e. 100mm celotex or similar between studs with 40mm across the studs. Tape and seal all joints. I wouldn't use quilt for this scenario at any price.

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You could build a stud wall and pack with rockwall. Or Dot and Dab Thermaline insulated plasterboard to the wall and re plaster to a good finish. Or You could actually do both rockwall inside stud wall with thermaline then screwed to the studs. Don't use the foil backed board it will be useless, thermaline has an inch or so of foam stuck to the back of it....

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The benefit of trench fill concrete is that you don't need to pay a bricklayer to build the footings in the trench. You will need to work out your drainage in advance though.

Should be easy enough, have a look at the previous thread here in building for some pics of what might need to be done. £15 to £25k depending on spec/requirements.

It's controlled work so would be notifiable to your LABC for BRegs approval. The biggest hurdle would probably be increasing your insulation to meet current thermal regulatory requirements. What is the existing garage wall construction? Why keep a third of it as a garage, why not just make the whole garage an habitable space?

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