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look at a marine take out roller cam competiton products has them some times they are hi tq and made to work down low and pull to 5000 .a cam on a 108 or 110 lca like this @050 226/234 604/604 lc108 or @050 224/232 568/576lc110 would be what i would start to look at

Quote: Originally Posted by pat mccarthy here is one to look at 298/306 050.238/246 621/621 108 lsa i would use this should hit hard and 10to1 or abit better will help . should not need to tube it my gto is not and i running a 632 .and yep them 66 gm A bodys are heavy cars Thanks Pat. Got a part/model # for this cam and the manufacturer or were those cam specs off the top of your head? Thanks, Scott

I checked out the Comp products site, nice link, no cam. You have anything laying around similar to this? I have heard hydraulic rollers are great cams, kinda pricey, but if you only have to do it once... How much torque/HP would this combo make? I wanted the wider LCA to keep my idle and vacuum, does the hydraulic roller have decent vacuum with the steep ramps?

the guy was setting them up for a solid roller cam. since my engine is basically going to be a street engine those springs would be a little big. I suspect that to get my 15" of vac i will have to go conservative on my cam choice. I was tossing around the idea of hydraulic roller with rhoads lifters to get back some of my vac at idle. My tech inspectors barely understand what vacuum is let alone how to manipulate it.

Guys I am a new member, and I hope somebody has their thinking cap on. I have a 427 bored .60" over ( 440) the list is long .... Canfield 310 series heads / solid roller cam / apx 11:1 compression with TRW forged pistons / RPM air gap / etc etc. This engine has about 1500 miles on it since new rebuild...........runs very strong. Problem........smoke on start up , not initially, but after she has run and is warmed up. Recent rod run (...

i just got 1973 454 block,2main,have steel crank i want to built hiperf street engine,any ideas thanksguys

Sounds like the rings never seated right. How did you run it in? The first ten minutes of an engine's life is the make-it-or-break-it time. I like to have them fire up quickly and run at 2000 RPM for those 10 minutes, never have any problems that way. Of course, that doesn't always work out, leaks happen, or dumb mistakes don't let it start right up, etc.

AJust a few things to look for. 1. Piston to cylinder clearance. Forged pistons generally require a bit more clearance than cast pistons, and sometimes create the condition you are experiencing, or the clearance may actually be too much. Check the specs for your pistons. 2. Are the valve seals still in their proper place. Sometimes they can move. 3.Is the intake sealed up good? 4.I would pull all the spark plugs and see which cylinders are...

Blwn31, You have to take into account how close the valve follows the piston during the cycle and how well designed and how the contour of the dome was built to the head. Then, there is a Quench or Squish question to address. As you spec'd the parts on your post, you'll be fine and things will fall into place for flame propagation and hidden "fuel traps" are handled in your engine. Understand that we have to assume...

Engine: Gen VI 454 Magnum Local speed shop set me up with NGK BR6FS plugs. Does that sound right? I gapped them at .40 thousands for use with MSD 7AL They're going in kind of hard? Maybe due to some spray paint on threads on head when engine was painted?