8-valve | Forum profile

thatys the general idea yeah! methods vary but the end result is the same

Right... to get this finished to date we need some flow data with the DCOE inlet manifold fitted. I'll add them both in here for simplicity, but not sure how it would be best to juggle them in the chart... I'll leave that headache with you Mike! The first set of results are the "D+" head with the manifold ported as per it last ran. In that configuration it made circa 177hp, so that'll give you some sort of idea...

unless its done 150k+ id leave bottom end alone.. or do the lot and take chance to get the block skimmed while its in bits

HI Dub stepper, I had exactly the same prob on my 1997 p plate 2.0 8v. It would start and run fine but when i stopped for petrol it would not start again for 15+ mins. I changed the usual plugs, leads, cap, arm etc all of which didnt help.... I changed 3 relays, number 30, number 167 & number 53. Try to look out for the proper vw/audi items made in germany (they will say on the side). usually black not grey as a lot of these were made...

Hey, hmmmm, a tricky one their, have you tried changeing the airflow meter over, or replacing it etc? chrz

If it's very flat up to 2k rpm, I'd say your cam timing could be out. If that's the case, then the work you did getting the ignition timing right is wasted, because it's out relative to the cam. There's a description of setting up cam timing in the haynes manual.

dont know, i would be interested to know as I am looking at the plug in tuning boxes for my cdti which basically overfuels so the ecu boosts to match. Makes them run a bit rich so struggle to see how they think I am going to get better mpg as well. Dont want to kill the cat

Quote: Originally Posted by 50ftdubdemon what about one of them tyre valve adapters you get with bicycle pumps? you could drop the spare to 20psi at a garage and connect up to the thin pipe running from the header to the rad. would have to block where you took it off on rad but bit of spare hose, few tie wraps reckon it should work guessin you already checked rubjohnny coolant faq for most common leak areas.. dodgy black header cap etc? Yeah...

AFAIK the 8v cams are something like 240, not sure on the lift altho its easy to check with a set of verniers

Try a full setup as per the FAQ's A warm engine should not cut out when the ISV is unplugged. Sounds like the base idle speed is too low & the ISV is struggling to catch it... If you have warm/hot hoses into & out of the heater matrix then id guess the problem lies between the slider control & flaps/valves that control the temperature. Either that or the matrix itself is partially blocked up....