Benchtop Mills (cnc & manual) | Forum profile

Originally Posted by TOTALLYRC It is nice to see that you are doing your part to stimulate the economy. Mike glad to see you approve. Hoss

Originally Posted by Teyber12 so i basically just need to push the arbor away from the drill chuck as hard as i can? its just a tapered connecting thats really connected well? cheers I would suggest putting the arbor in ice water, and hitting the chuck with a heat gun. Or heat the whole thing up in an over to about 300F, then dunk the arbor in ice water. It'll probably pop right out. Using a tie rod separator is likely to ruin the arbor....

Hi Bob Been following you with interest. Thanks for the idea of using an old parallel switch box as an interface - brilliant lateral thinking. I have ordered one of Arturos C10 after much searching the electronics to build the interface was about the same as CNC4PC have been listing the C10 on ebay. No doubt I will have to pay import duty but is still a bargain for a ready made solution. Regards Pat

Open the chuck as far as it goes. Now open the jaws of a vise wide enough to let the arbor pass through. Set the chuck on this, have someone ready to catch the arbor. Now use the largest pin punch (Flat tip, nothing pointy) you have through the open jaws. Hit it with a hammer to drive out the arbor. It's just a tight taper fit. CR.

Originally Posted by Adam Baker Whitehedr, I cant answer any of your questions for sure, but Im going to take a stab at the opening in the Z axis. Im sure that slot is how the spindle attaches to the ball screw. Well DUH on me this time!!!!! That picture does play tricks on my tired old eyes though. If you study it long enough the slot becomes a raised thing and vice versa. Now another question for Starleper1: Where did you get the steel for...

Yes the head attaches to the ball screw thru the slot. I got most of my steel for free from my work. But check out SpeedyMetals.com this is where I get all my stock for different things.

When you built the components, did you put in any kind of webbing to add rigidity, or is it just boxed? Also, when I looked at htat link you gave for the rails, I found the width of the various rails, but I didnt see where it tells how long each rail is available in. DO you have to contact them to find out the available lengths?

What would be a suggested set of collets and golder for the collets?

Hoss, the rf45 community is thrilled to have you lining up to start innovating on our machines! Fwiw, these mills are heavy. I have the obligatory engine hoist, but I've also found an inexpensive scissors (die) table is a real handy thing to have around the shop. They aren't that expensive if you look around. Cheers, bob w

Hi grf, you might want to have a look at this thread: http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=88540 - the Weiss machines seem to be very similar to the BF20/BF30. I've just bought a BF30 equivalent a few weeks ago, and I'm very pleased with it so far.