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Classic & Vintage | Forum profile
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Forum profile page for Classic & Vintage on http://www.bikeforums.net.
This report page is the aggregated overview from a single forum: Classic & Vintage, located on the Message Board at http://www.bikeforums.net.
This forum profile page summarizes the general forum statistics such as: Users Activity, Forum Activity, and Top Authors, which are reported in either a table or graph below for a given reporting time period.
Additional forum profile information for "Classic & Vintage" on the Message Board at http://www.bikeforums.net is also shown in the following ways:
1) Latest Active Threads
2) Hot Threads for Last Week
Warning: These statistics are generated using 'best efforts' and can experience delays and reporting errors at times. Please note that such statistics do not constitute a forum's popularity and/or exact posting volumes at any given reporting period.
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Posting activity on Classic & Vintage:
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Week
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Month
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3 Months
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Threads:
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173
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1,322
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4,351
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Post:
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1,053
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8,518
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27,968
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Classic & Vintage Posting activity graph:
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Top authors during last week:
user's latest post:
Today's retrogrouch ride -...
Published (2009-11-18 10:50:00)
methinks there was some acting involved in the reaction to the ponytail yank.
user's latest post:
Is rebuilding my SunTour...
Published (2009-11-18 09:12:00)
This thread is pretty long for a simple question. I know that's par for the course for bikeforums and many other forums (fora?). But now I'm really eager to hear from vintage87 (the OP). I hope he DOES overhaul his freewheel and tells us how it went.
user's latest post:
The end of an era?
Published (2009-11-18 12:55:00)
Originally Posted by jbonamici You bring up a point that I've often wondered about. Does anyone have order of magnitude numbers for how many "vintage" bikes are out there? Never mind the boutique houses or customs. Just good, solid lugged Schwinns, Miyatas, Raleighs, Treks, etc. etc. For example, in the heyday, what would have been the annual production of Miyata 210s? here is a graph and a link from where it came from...
user's latest post:
American to Euro BB Adapter...
Published (2009-11-18 12:25:00)
As long as you have a BB with the plastic there's no harm in trying it. What you should do is thread in the plastic up first then move onto the cartridge side I was wrong about the purpose of the screws. They do help to hold the adapters in. Because there's no flange on the axle like a conventional loose ball spindle has, the screws help to keep everything in place if an adapter works loose in the frame. If an adpater were to work...
user's latest post:
Source for Cheap Drop Bars
Published (2009-11-18 09:02:00)
Originally Posted by jgedwa If you are not picky about what they are, then I might guess that a local LBS has a box of old ones sitting in the back. jim I agree you may even score a pair with brake levers. not fancy ones but you never know. in the early '90s we used to do alot of 'hybrid conversion' and often the customer left the old drop bars behind.
user's latest post:
Old, cheap road bikes--need advice.
Published (2009-11-18 13:31:00)
Originally Posted by gna I thought the silver one (second post) was a 23". You think 25"? I called and asked size, but many of these sellers are confused about how to measure bikes. Standover is 34" or so. Did the Raleigh Rapide come in a 24" frame? I'm guessing they just didn't measure accurately. Is it a Reliant, or a Rapide? As I recall both were made in Taiwan and they were the cheapest thing...
user's latest post:
The end of an era?
Published (2009-11-18 12:19:00)
Originally Posted by EjustE well... it could happen, but to build it to a true classic design you need to start with a lugged frame. Add a few bells and whistles and the sustainable MSRP of such a thing would be close to $1.5-2k... 2.5 K is possible, only a few choices, VERY few. I know of some. $2000's, even fewer out there save for Rvdll, 1 or 2 other. The lugged aspect's the obsticle. None are mass produced and never will be....
user's latest post:
Washington Tweed Ride made All...
Published (2009-11-17 19:47:00)
I can't put my finger on why the NPR version seemed a little creepy. And I'm not sure I'd want to.
user's latest post:
Source for Cheap Drop Bars
Published (2009-11-18 12:35:00)
LBS has this pile of ITM 42's, and they aren't expensive. See the FS section: http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=561810 -Kurt
user's latest post:
Today's retrogrouch ride
Published (2009-11-18 09:53:00)
Originally Posted by EjustE This is an el nino winter. Last one was 2001. If I remember correctly we just got a dusting of snow that melted by noon the next day. Get ready for a nice winter riding season in the Mid-Atlantic I sure hope you're right about this.
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Latest active threads on Classic & Vintage::
Started 1 week, 1 day ago (2009-11-17 21:52:00)
by Bob Barker
I'd pay $15 for the World
Started 1 week ago (2009-11-18 10:19:00)
by jbonamici
http://rivercitybicycles.com/product...ackets-737. htm
These little buggers allow you to mount the fender in two pieces (after cutting it). They used to have a pictorial on how to do it, but I couldn't put my hands on it immediately.
Started 1 week ago (2009-11-18 11:35:00)
by soderbiker
Started 1 week ago (2009-11-18 13:11:00)
by tugrul
Started 1 week, 1 day ago (2009-11-17 21:06:00)
by old and new
Started 1 week, 1 day ago (2009-11-17 16:32:00)
by kevinsubaru
Nice! Do you have a photo of the headbadge?
Started 1 week, 2 days ago (2009-11-16 11:50:00)
by miamijim
You have few options...
1. Dremel or file channels for the scews.
2. 'Glue' the adpaters in place. Try green Loctite or a little JB weld. If you go with JB weld I'd only use it in a few spots, maybe a few dabs every 90 degrees.
Started 1 week, 1 day ago (2009-11-17 22:16:00)
by EjustE
Niagara sells them for $23 + Shipping. On ebay you can get them for $10-15 with shipping sometimes. Best source: cheap donor bikes.
Started 1 week, 1 day ago (2009-11-17 16:32:00)
by miamijim
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Hot threads for last week on Classic & Vintage::
Started 1 week, 2 days ago (2009-11-16 11:50:00)
by miamijim
You have few options...
1. Dremel or file channels for the scews.
2. 'Glue' the adpaters in place. Try green Loctite or a little JB weld. If you go with JB weld I'd only use it in a few spots, maybe a few dabs every 90 degrees.
Started 1 week, 1 day ago (2009-11-17 16:32:00)
by miamijim
Started 1 week, 1 day ago (2009-11-17 16:48:00)
by EjustE
Japanese. Sakae. Most mid level 80s bikes (US and Japanese made) had SR stems, bars and posts. The higher end US bikes got the Cinelli stuff.
Started 1 week, 2 days ago (2009-11-17 07:04:00)
by wrk101
Since money is tight, I would conserve and finish your current project. Unfinished/project bikes do not bring good value, and this time of the year is a tough time to sell a bike.
A good buy on a bike goes beyond the model and the price, it has to include your economic situation. I have passed on many "good" deals over the years for this reason.
My basic rule (borrowed ...
Started 1 week ago (2009-11-18 11:35:00)
by soderbiker
Started 1 week, 1 day ago (2009-11-17 09:30:00)
by jbonamici
Originally Posted by flammenwurfer
or have my wheel all jankity.
I've had experience with cattywhompus wheels and whopperjawed wheels but never jankity wheels, so I'm afraid I have no idea.
Started 1 week, 3 days ago (2009-11-15 22:16:00)
by noglider
Oh, and it hit 70ºF today, and it was sunny. Very unusual for this time of year. Very enjoyable, too, needless to say.
Started 1 week, 2 days ago (2009-11-17 05:58:00)
by cb400bill
Started 1 week, 1 day ago (2009-11-17 16:32:00)
by kevinsubaru
Nice! Do you have a photo of the headbadge?
Started 1 week, 2 days ago (2009-11-16 14:14:00)
by tatfiend
No personal experience but I have read of such damage occuring from bicycle mechanics postings here even with supposedly acceptable input ratios. If you are a spinner then I would not expect a problem but a strong or heavy masher can apparently have problems. One member who runs an IGH ebike has reported destroying both SA and SRAM hubs due to excessive input torque. Rohloff ...
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