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2.5mm's worth of forked on both sides. But if you need a 113 and you ordered a 113 i'm confused as to why this thread exists.

Originally Posted by BigBlueToe I don't think there's much to worry about with steel. With other materials I'd be concerned. Check out Sheldon Brown's article on cold-setting. That's what I used to spread the stays on my wife's Schwinn. It worked fine. Reread the above positngs. The Tecniums were a peculiar mix of Al and steel tubes with either steel or Al lugs. They are not standard all-steel brazed or welded...

Surley is at fault and should take it back. The smallest ring should clear the bearings. If it doesn't, thats a sign of poor design.

Here's a diagram of Shimano DT shifter (which has same basic structure as bar-ends; only the shift lever shape differs, and of course DT shifters are mounted on the brame instead of its own mounting bracket). Shows a bit more exploded than the Shimano diagram linked above. Disregard the cannondale-specific stuff.

For the bottom bracket creak, if tightening made the creak go away for even a shot while, read up on how to install one, take the bike apart, and put it back together properly. It's likely that your LBS is skipping a step. If your frame hasn't been faced for an external bearing BB, get that done as well while it's apart. Shimano's BBs are high quality parts and unless you got a rare defective unit, it shouldn't creak.

cheers guys.

I can see maybe a crankset swap to get some more usuable front end options for better ratios but why change the rear derraileur if it doesn't need changing? Or is it because you had a short cage and will now require a long cage? Seems like a CX bike should have a long cage by default unless it was all you had at the time. Don't pretty much all the front derrailleurs have enough travel range to cover a triple? No need to change it...

Originally Posted by ansetou and would this cutter work for either cable housing and cables? http://www.probikekit.com/display.php?code=T0030 I presume so, although they don't give you a lot of info about it. I use a similar looking Park Tools cutter and cuts both cable and housing fine.

I didn't catch how old the post was that I replied to.

Originally Posted by Rabbitbunny Right, that's half of it. Now, to find the OD of say.. a 32-406 Let's say the tire was rated on a 20mm rim. So, given theta = 2sin^-1(a/2R), and s = Rtheta, that gives our carcass width at 78.92 and an OD of 462.97 Well, what if it was a 25mm rim? That would give us 71.83mm and OD at 457.97 That's just a 5mm difference. How can this even come close to 'standard'? They're not...