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Bicycle Mechanics | Forum profile
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Forum profile page for Bicycle Mechanics on http://www.bikeforums.net.
This report page is the aggregated overview from a single forum: Bicycle Mechanics, located on the Message Board at http://www.bikeforums.net.
This forum profile page summarizes the general forum statistics such as: Users Activity, Forum Activity, and Top Authors, which are reported in either a table or graph below for a given reporting time period.
Additional forum profile information for "Bicycle Mechanics" on the Message Board at http://www.bikeforums.net is also shown in the following ways:
1) Latest Active Threads
2) Hot Threads for Last Week
Warning: These statistics are generated using 'best efforts' and can experience delays and reporting errors at times. Please note that such statistics do not constitute a forum's popularity and/or exact posting volumes at any given reporting period.
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Posting activity on Bicycle Mechanics:
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3 Months
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Threads:
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396
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1,516
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4,871
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Post:
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1,773
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7,704
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24,881
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Bicycle Mechanics Posting activity graph:
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Top authors during last week:
user's latest post:
ok how do I move my compression...
Published (2009-11-08 09:12:00)
That works like a quill stem - the rest of your plug, the bolt rather, pulls the central plug up and expands the 3/4 rings into the steer tube. Thus securing it. All you need to do is disengage both parts and it'll be free. Put the compressionbolt back in and tap the outside pieces with something.
user's latest post:
Noisy Suntour derailer
Published (2009-11-08 20:00:00)
Is this a friction or indexing system? Are you sure it's the derailleur, not a badly worn chain and/or cassette/freewheel?
user's latest post:
SRAM Master Link Falls Out?
Published (2009-11-08 21:45:00)
I've heard of this happening before and I don't remember anything much coming of the discussion. Either the link wasn't assembled properly or it's possibly overly worn. I'd highly recommend replacing it versus risking a crash due to a reoccurence.
user's latest post:
Steer tube dimensions
Published (2009-11-08 22:18:00)
Originally Posted by well biked So now you're editing your incorrect info. Thanks. Altho it's still wrong in respect to the stanchions being separate from the crown/steerer. Hangovers bring clarity...sometimes.
user's latest post:
External bearing BB just had a...
Published (2009-11-03 10:19:00)
The seals are dust seals and will allow a full compliment of grease to leak out until it'sw balanced.
user's latest post:
Shimano 105 Left Shifter
Published (2009-11-08 22:47:00)
Originally Posted by Daytrip Not true. I have a 105 Double. Won't do triple, though Triple 105 shifters will do double if you set them up right. Well, Shimano doesn't agree with you: http://bike.shimano.com/publish/cont...e-st_road.html
user's latest post:
Is this common? - Page 2 - Bike...
Published (2009-11-08 02:12:00)
Originally Posted by vwvwwvwv That's excellent advice! I will have to try this. When you say you smear the glue w/ the patch, i'm guessing the protective foil is still on the patch so that the wet glue doesn't get on the patch surface? No, you remove the foil and use the rubber side of the patch to smear and spread the dab of glue. Just lay it down flat and rub it around a bit; you'll see the excess glue seep out of the...
user's latest post:
Wheetset, hubs and rims ....
Published (2009-11-05 10:10:00)
Go to http://www.chosens-hubs.com Visit the tech section...find the link to catalogue...download both pdfs. One of them should provide and nicely written up and photo-sequential HINT as to the disassembly and assembly of your hub. They are an OEM manufacturer and quietly manufacture for various brand-name and startup wannabe brand name companies. =8-) Hope it help...good luck.
user's latest post:
7-speed and less than 36 spoke hub?
Published (2009-11-07 10:14:00)
If it was my bike I'd go the DannonXYZ route. Buy a wheelset that has a Shimano freehub body, replace the freehub body with a 7-speed freehub, add a 4mm spacer to the left side and redish the wheel. It's a little more work than sticking a 4.5 mm spacer under the cassette but it's more elegant looking.
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Latest active threads on Bicycle Mechanics::
Started 1 day, 4 hours ago (2009-11-09 06:39:00)
by roberth33tiger
cleaned and lubed? new cables? housing kinks, sharp bends, burrs? rd misalinement?
Started 1 day, 15 hours ago (2009-11-08 20:00:00)
by HillRider
Is this a friction or indexing system? Are you sure it's the derailleur, not a badly worn chain and/or cassette/freewheel?
Started 1 day, 4 hours ago (2009-11-09 07:12:00)
by timcupery
I assume you're talking about an 8-speed Shimano rear derailer, and 9-speed Shimano shifters and cassette. This will work. All Shimano rear derailers (except pre-9-speed Dura Ace) have the same amount of travel per amount of cable-pull. So if your rear derailer is 8-speed Dura-Ace, the answer is no.
Your shifting may not be as crisp as with a 9-speed-era rear derailer, because ...
Started 1 day, 1 hour ago (2009-11-09 09:40:00)
by Metzinger
I'll retract my earlier statement.
You need a new tire. The tube will herniate out and pop.
Started 1 day, 14 hours ago (2009-11-08 21:18:00)
by Kerri
You should take it back to your LBS and ask that they replace it for free. This could have caused a serious injury. If they are not willing to take responsibilty for it, I would threaten to take them to small claims court.
Started 4 days, 20 hours ago (2009-11-05 14:43:00)
by linux_author
buy a double left-hand 105 brifter?
Started 1 day, 16 hours ago (2009-11-08 19:00:00)
by imi
Have you checked the rim tape, that it's not worn out or not covering the spoke screws properly? New thicker rim tape might solve the problem...
Started 10 months, 4 weeks ago (2008-12-17 07:36:00)
by Juha
Welcome to the Forums Kate!
Originally Posted by kate-p
The hub is a Sturmey Archer 5 speed X-FDD (front wheel).
Methinks you have a dynohub in front, and the SA 5-speed hub in the rear. Which one seems ...
Started 1 day, 4 hours ago (2009-11-09 07:15:00)
by timcupery
I assume the play is prior to tightening the lockring that holds the cassette onto the freehub?
Also, is the play a result of the freehub itself having play (which you can test with the cassette off) or is it a result of play between the cassette and the freehub body? You make it sound like the latter.
If the cassette is nice and tight on the freehub body once the lockring...
Started 1 day, 11 hours ago (2009-11-08 23:47:00)
by merlin55
Powder coating is thicker than solvent paint, and much more durable. It is very important that holes, threads, etc are masked or plugged before paint, or else reassembly will require tapping and chasing of the threads.
Some types of powder coatings provide better coverage on sharp edges, which is were frames tend to start to rust. So ask your powder coater what type of ...
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Hot threads for last week on Bicycle Mechanics::
Started 5 days, 22 hours ago (2009-11-04 13:16:00)
by CACycling
Like these?
http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=1 613
Started 1 week ago (2009-11-02 22:40:00)
by operator
You need to bring up your concerns with the LBS. And don't go in with guns blazing. They may have had good reason for some of it. Talk to them.
There's no wiggle room with the trueness issue though - if you can see that it's out visually without a stand, that's unacceptable.
Started 6 days, 21 hours ago (2009-11-03 13:57:00)
by Homebrew01
You can go 8,9 or 10 speed.
You need:
- shift levers (8, 9 or 10 speed)
- Rear wheel for cassette
- matching cassette
- matching rear derailleur
- matching chain
You can probably do it pretty inexpensively with careful Ebay shopping for used parts. I did a nice switch using mid-range Campy parts for $350, but lower end Shimano should be less.
Started 6 days, 3 hours ago (2009-11-04 07:59:00)
by Steev
Most tools I use are either general purpose tools like hex wrenches or very specific like lock ring tools, neither of which are worth trying to fabricate.
That said, I did make my chain whip after borrowing a friend's and seeing it was nothing but bar stock and a chain.
Started 5 days, 3 hours ago (2009-11-05 07:43:00)
by Nessism
That dent doesn't look that bad. If you get your hands on some tubing blocks the majority of the dent can be worked out and the rest can be filled with body putty of some sort before painting.
Started 4 days, 1 hour ago (2009-11-06 09:57:00)
by bcart1991
For $50 each, not bad. You could probably tune them up and flip them for 50% profit, but the season is winding down, and prices are dropping fast. Wait until spring to sell them and you'll get a better price.
Started 1 week ago (2009-11-02 14:49:00)
by mrrabbit
36 Hole is fine...
Sounds to me like the spokes in general are undertensioned...
Did they break at the heads (where they reside in the hub)???
=8-)
Started 1 week, 1 day ago (2009-11-02 08:26:00)
by Bob Barker
IIRC from Sheldon, the main advantage of lacing the leading/trailing spokes in the preferred orientation is that it eases the removal of a chain dropped between the first cog and the hub flange.
Started 1 week ago (2009-11-03 07:47:00)
by HillRider
The only way I've seen recommended to improve a flat spot is pretty crude. You loosen the spokes, then "wack" the rim inside of the flat area with a piece of wood to bump the flat out to the correct contour, then retension and true the wheel.
Started 1 day, 14 hours ago (2009-11-08 21:28:00)
by well biked
First: no, steerer tube lengths aren't the same most of the time. On threaded steerers, it's mostly determined by the length of the head tube. On threadless, it's determined by the head tube length and how much steerer tube you want rising above the head tube for the stack of spacers, stem, etc. Bottom line, there's a lot of variation.
I don't understand the rest of ...
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