|
More site info...
Automotive | Forum profile
|
|
Forum profile page for Automotive on http://www.automotiveforums.com.
This report page is the aggregated overview from a single forum: Automotive, located on the Message Board at http://www.automotiveforums.com.
This forum profile page summarizes the general forum statistics such as: Users Activity, Forum Activity, and Top Authors, which are reported in either a table or graph below for a given reporting time period.
Additional forum profile information for "Automotive" on the Message Board at http://www.automotiveforums.com is also shown in the following ways:
1) Latest Active Threads
2) Hot Threads for Last Week
Warning: These statistics are generated using 'best efforts' and can experience delays and reporting errors at times. Please note that such statistics do not constitute a forum's popularity and/or exact posting volumes at any given reporting period.
|
|
|
|
|
Posting activity on Automotive:
|
|
Week
|
Month
|
3 Months
|
|
Threads:
|
85
|
254
|
706
|
|
Post:
|
298
|
873
|
2,478
|
|
|
Automotive Posting activity graph:
|
Top authors during last week:
user's latest post:
Tail-Lights - Paint inside or out?
Published (2009-11-26 10:06:00)
Thanks for the replies guys... Sharpie does sound interesting, as others have mentioned please can you provide us with a link - clear colors. Finally, do any of you 'polish' the exterior of the lights (front clears included) to ensure a good shine..... polish? a layer of micro-gloss? or do you just leave them as it? Quote: Originally Posted by rallymaster I prefer painting the outside, it's more realist on my taste to the tinted...
user's latest post:
Zap-A-Gap for resin kits - Page...
Published (2009-11-23 12:41:00)
Quote: Originally Posted by TurboGuru ...I am begining to understand the need for the accerlerator. I found that whilst holding the pieces in place they were sliding around a lot, it was like the glue wasn't curing as fast as I expected. ITYS. See Post #16, this thread. Ddms
user's latest post:
looking for 1mm brass tubing
Published (2009-11-27 14:24:00)
Quote: Originally Posted by 914joe Many thanks for the offer!!! I'll see what I can find on Mon... If I have a hard time finding something I may hit you up later. No problem. Just don't hit me too hard!
user's latest post:
Tail-Lights - Paint inside or out?
Published (2009-11-27 10:40:00)
I'm not at home so I can't just take a photo of the Sharpies. They're just the same old color Sharpies you see everywhere, they're nearly universal. Their inks are translucent, except for black or the silver or gold paint versions (also quite handy for your toolbox). I use the colored Sharpies w/the fine bullet tip, pretty much the standard Sharpie. I have larger chisel tip black Sharpies for doing the black inner window...
user's latest post:
What are 1/24 or 1/25 kits that...
Published (2009-11-24 10:14:00)
You probably mean those older Tamiya kits with scooters. I remember the Nissan Leopard 280 and an old Skyline had them.
user's latest post:
MP 4/4 reference sites
Published (2009-11-27 05:11:00)
though his stuff isn't very detailed you might find something useful. otherwise I always find it cool just to waste a couple hours browsing through his extensive photo galleries. you'll have to register to get the full benefits (its FREE) but its well worth it. Schlegelmilch Photography
user's latest post:
Ferrari FXX for Sale
Published (2009-11-23 23:10:00)
I remember seeing this in a magazine of mine and then I searched and found the build thread for it. Very cool work, it'll make a nice centerpiece for someone.
user's latest post:
Tail-Lights - Paint inside or out?
Published (2009-11-26 11:08:00)
Quote: Originally Posted by TurboGuru Thanks for the replies guys... Sharpie does sound interesting, as others have mentioned please can you provide us with a link - clear colors. Finally, do any of you 'polish' the exterior of the lights (front clears included) to ensure a good shine..... polish? a layer of micro-gloss? or do you just leave them as it? try dipping the entire part in Pledge with Future Shine Floor Finish
user's latest post:
Orange?
Published (2009-11-26 11:48:00)
I would add that if you only have access to spray cans, then I would spray your first coat of pearl clear directly onto your last wet coat of the orange. This allows the pearl flakes to seep into the orange somewhat and gives you a better pearl orange effect. You can then follow up with additional coats of pearl clear as neccessary. It won't be perfect though and the pearl effect will not be as fine as on the real paint.
user's latest post:
How to prepare metal parts for...
Published (2009-11-23 10:41:00)
Just use fine sanding boards, and then spray some self-etching metal primer, followed by regular primer, then paint.
|
|
|
|
Latest active threads on Automotive::
Started 1 week, 6 days ago (2009-11-16 07:01:00)
by exhaust smoke
Cool, never noticed the R32. Looks bo be like Tamiya's new trend of re-using with their older kits and adding Cartograf decals and possibly a p/e set (like what they are doing with their Porsche 962C's).
Started 2 days, 21 hours ago (2009-11-26 21:10:00)
by ZoomZoomMX-5
Started 2 days, 14 hours ago (2009-11-27 04:49:00)
by sjelic
this is good start
http://www.gurneyflap.com/mclarenmp44.html
Started 3 months, 3 weeks ago (2009-08-05 04:01:00)
by jano11
The future looks bright, isn't it?
However at the end it all depends on the costs.
No matter how you look at it, it takes many work hours to make a realistic and printable 3D model.
Than you print it or have it machined, than you clean it up, because let's be honest the 3D printed or machined parts are far from being good enough to be directly used for molding.
Than you have to take into ...
Started 4 days, 23 hours ago (2009-11-24 19:07:00)
by rallymaster
I prefer painting the outside, it's more realist on my taste to the tinted plastic used for lights.
You may avoid the "plastic cover" look of inside painted lights if painting the outside, but I can't swear some painted on the inside would never be acceptable...
Most of reference builders paint the outside.
Try both solution, chose what seems better to you.
Started 4 days, 10 hours ago (2009-11-25 07:57:00)
by Veyron
The Turbo Coupe engine is the closest you'll get to it, I think.
That's the one I used to build a replica of my nephew's XR4Ti.
Started 5 days, 8 hours ago (2009-11-24 10:14:00)
by Khier
You probably mean those older Tamiya kits with scooters. I remember the Nissan Leopard 280 and an old Skyline had them.
Started 4 days, 2 hours ago (2009-11-25 16:25:00)
by hirofkd
Arancio Borealis, maybe?
http://dealerrevs.com/car/16315440
|
|
Hot threads for last week on Automotive::
Started 1 week, 1 day ago (2009-11-21 01:55:00)
by tuned.by.twenty
Any pictures to show? Is it an actual texture, or just a stain? If your clear wasn't fully cured I could see the tape leaving a texture behind.
Started 1 week, 2 days ago (2009-11-20 10:01:00)
by ZoomZoomMX-5
TKM...Totally Krap Models...for over 20 years. The guy lives in a time warp, his models haven't changed since he began. Some of the masters have potential, but his casting techniques are terribly sloppy, his chassis are so rough you'll cut yourself & need a tetanus shot. Don't be surprised if you find a stray bug, food particles, or pubic hair in the resin. Seriously. I'm not making that up......
Started 4 days, 23 hours ago (2009-11-24 19:07:00)
by rallymaster
I prefer painting the outside, it's more realist on my taste to the tinted plastic used for lights.
You may avoid the "plastic cover" look of inside painted lights if painting the outside, but I can't swear some painted on the inside would never be acceptable...
Most of reference builders paint the outside.
Try both solution, chose what seems better to you.
Started 1 week, 4 days ago (2009-11-18 08:57:00)
by ZoomZoomMX-5
It's perfect for resin & plastic. Yes, it's liquid, but thickness is in between liquid cement and the old tube glues, kind of like syrup. I generally have a mixing card with the Zap a Gap (yes, it's CA), and use toothpicks/craft sticks to apply the glue. I apply the glue to the surface that another part is going to mate, then apply that part. It dries reasonably quick, but I always use an ...
Started 6 days, 18 hours ago (2009-11-23 00:01:00)
by tuned.by.twenty
Started 5 days, 3 hours ago (2009-11-24 15:17:00)
by da_ashman
I know hiroboy.com sells a set of Martini paints & also telefonia blue under Zero Paints. Theyre airbrush paints however
Started 1 week, 6 days ago (2009-11-16 07:01:00)
by exhaust smoke
Cool, never noticed the R32. Looks bo be like Tamiya's new trend of re-using with their older kits and adding Cartograf decals and possibly a p/e set (like what they are doing with their Porsche 962C's).
Started 6 days, 11 hours ago (2009-11-23 07:30:00)
by TurboGuru
How to prepare metal parts for priming.
Hi all
I've recently purchased some reskin multimedia kits and have a few questions about the metal prices (exhausts, alloy wheels etc).
Is there anything I should do with the metal parts before applying primer? .... the metal parts feel really smooth and almost like they have been coated...
Started 5 days, 2 hours ago (2009-11-24 16:10:00)
by The Yes Man
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickard_Olsson
When ordering at Hiroboy.com.. When do I type in my creditcardnumber or my make of the creditcard?
Cause right now it says that I placed an order but how can I place an order without have typed in my creditcardnumber..?
// Rickard
Hi Rickard
The only thing ...
Started 3 months, 3 weeks ago (2009-08-05 04:01:00)
by jano11
The future looks bright, isn't it?
However at the end it all depends on the costs.
No matter how you look at it, it takes many work hours to make a realistic and printable 3D model.
Than you print it or have it machined, than you clean it up, because let's be honest the 3D printed or machined parts are far from being good enough to be directly used for molding.
Than you have to take into ...
|
|