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Those big-uns are the output transistors we want to keep healthy, even though GOOD replacements are slightly less than 4 bucks each. The culprits are little silver top hat/can looking things with a c-shaped hunk of metal wrapped around them on the amplifier cards that are mounted to the heat sinks that have the output transistors on them. They are an assembly. Remind your pal to be very careful with the little fragile bias diodes also mounted...

EW advised me on the current limiters time is of the essence and a multi-turn can turn a simple adjustment to a PITA. In the case of the Spec 2 it gets blazing hot in just seconds, and you have no time to "multi-turn" On the Spec 4 do you hook up a 4 ohm, load while leaving the ohms switch at 8?

Quote: Originally Posted by johnnm No! I thought the finish (even on the top edge there) was anodized aluminum. If you sand it, it'll remove the anodized finish, leaving a worse blemish than is there. I tried this on my SX-1250 before realizing what a mistake I had made. I believe that there are caustic cleaners out there that you could carefully re-etch the aluminum, Naval Jelly possibly being one of them. Also ......... Being that the...

nope single turn here.So you can't always use multi turn pots.

Quote: Originally Posted by markthefixer this might help? don't know if I posted this before on this thread - several cap threads going at once.... http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/sho...5&postcount=11 the cssa's are usually a sky or powder blue, tha NL's are orange and the tantalum (csza) caps look like gumdrops - rounded construction, not aluminum cans. Nope, I may have seen it on another topic, but not thought about...

- Ive been referencing this thread as kind of a quality of parts spot: http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=269886 Cost isnt exactly an issue. I would like to replace anything with just about the best or good as exist now since its such a hassle finally getting in my receiver. [QUOTE=markthefixer;3288074]That is a view shared by MANY excellent Technicians, and in my opinion worth quite a few "brownie points", as...

We've already replaced the caps. I only have spare NPN, extras from the last replacement round. Q14 2sc1647 ecb 512-KSD1616ALBU to-92 ecb 160v 1a 0.75w 160mhz 135-400hfe $0.09 Q15 2sc1384 ecb 512-KSC2690AYS to-126 ecb 120/a160 1.2a 20w 155mhz 35-320hfe $0.40 No diodes so I'd need to order stuff or round it up anyway. Either a mouser order or whatever I can pick up at RadioShack. I hooked up everything BUT D7 to see if it holds. SO...

I used a bunch of those Hitachi caps when he had them. They seemed a little light. I'd save the bad one and cut it open to see if it has something else inside. Normally I use the 22,000µf 100V United Chemi-Con caps from Newark, 36DA223F100CD2A, #95F4479. Reasonable price, and probably one of the best caps out there for a Spec 2.

I use the component tuner for tuning. The tube's tuner section is powered up as I still get a mono FM signal at mpx out. I dont use this. I connect the antenna to the component tuner. Does SW use the am antenna? If so, I don't have one connected. I didn't think there were any SW broadcasts anymore. I enjoy good FM and was looking for a way to get good stereo through the tube reciever. I have found the tuner in the SX-434 is...

Quote: Originally Posted by markthefixer NO. The balance pot has a unique taper, from halfway to full on alternate sides the resistance is unchanging, a purely conductive contact. Only HALF the rotation will have a resistance change. That's why the symbol is drawn strangely in the schematic. Thank you! You just saved me $22.