Traditional Archery | Forum profile

Not everyone uses the same make bat, glove, golf club, ball, boots, hockey stick, underwear, etc. We?re all different and have different opinions as to what the ?best? might be. Some bows perform better (in one manner or another), look better, or just feel better. But, whatever criteria floats someone?s boat, if they shoot the bow well and confidence is bolstered?then the bow is apt to get a disproportionate, perhaps inordinate, amount of the...

This Dynamic Spine Calculator floating around here can really help. Download it and play with all variables you intend to work with till you can get the arrow spine to come close the bow and draw specs. One thing you will notice is that adding weight is less effective than length changes, but adding lots of weight (if that's what you ultimately need anyway) can get you results too. This newer version of the spreadsheet has lots more arrow...

Many bow manufacturers have used "Xxxx Hawk" in some of their models. However, locate the "Saxon Hawk" website and see if your bow is there.

Quote: Originally Posted by rraming Personal choice - maybe the person was influenced by a well known archer who uses the Palmer. I think once you get over the 200 dollar mark it is all personal choice. $200!!! Are you dissing my now almost hand made $119 Martin Jaguar as bein ... well ... I thought a personal choice.....

Kegan - Those numbers are close enough for gov't work, and it's really hard to lock down a specific as the shaft material and initial length factor in as well. That's why we keep it general. Sorry, can't help ya with the carbon arrow thing. In general terms an arrow with a .300" deflection spines to about 90# (+/-) at 28 - 29"/125 gr head. adding 2" would drop you to about 80#, and 100 extra grs...

Quote: Originally Posted by holycow1972 have you heard what it's considered? I believe recurve....but appears to be semi-curved... how does it shoot? what did you pay for it? looks nice... I haven't heard anything about what it would be considered. I paid forty dollars. There was a time when I thought it shot ok but not anymore but that might be because I have never had a decent string for it. Also, the shelf has a down angle to it...

For my selfbows, after bareshafting a couple bows with the aluminum arrows I picked up I found my normal handles need an arrow that's about 10# lighter, skinny handles with an extra narrowed arrow pass need 5# lighter, and wider handles need about 15# lighter. Unless I make a real dog as far as performance, this seems to hold true for most of my bows, the rest fixed with tuning. So far, I've been able to shoot the same aluminum...

Quote: It's all really in your confidence with your self & your equipment & the type of location & hunting that determines which equipment you should cary in the woods. While I see where you're coming from, I see it a little differently. I think we have to ask ourselves..... "What's more important? The end result?.....or the manner of taking"? To me, it's ALL about the...

Congrats! Ray

Keep up the good work