Bow Tuning | Forum profile

Quote: Originally Posted by jtascone I would have to say that if your unfletched arrow are within 3 " of your fletched arrows at 30 yards, your fletched arrow flight should be pretty darn good. Yeah. 3" could likely be corrected by backing limb weight down with a 1/4 turn on the bolts top/bottom, or a small decrease in tip weight.

When tuning for what you want you use a slightly different method. You tune the bow for field points and then using both, you adjust center shot or nocking point to bring them together > if the fixed broadheads are slightly off, move the rest right or left or up and down (or nocking point) very, very slightly. Personally and said by a lot of top hunters, if you're shooting fixed broadheads, tune and sight for fixed broadheads. PSE...

The only one I have is Tuning Your Compound Bow. The others don't apply as I tune all my bows the same way, regardless of whether it's for hunting or target. Stll, Larry does know what he is talking about. I know him personally for many years. That being said, for tuning I still like the Easton Tuning Guide. It gives instruction for several methods of tuning and in simple English. It's timeless. Tuning methods do not change...

So far I have gained about 8 or 9 FPS. I am still playing with it a bit. I am sure some of these tuners that do quite a bit of work on these cams could get more but I am happy with my results so far.

do some searching on this site, many threads discussing timing and tuning.

Not that it really matters, but I'm curious as to why you want to do this. if your arrow nock is near eye level, you're essentially 'rifle barrel' aiming, which is okay, but it seems like you're just using the arrow tip as a sight, which again, is fine, but I'm just curious. I shoot my compounds instinctively from time to time, albeit at substantially shorter distances.... If the bow as a short ATA, I'd worry...

I shoot with gloves all year. New winter gloves have the same effect as adding thickness (front to rear) to your grip. I'm such a bad/sensitive/picky shooter that 1/4 of an inch messes with my anchor and over-all comfort at full draw. I like a solid "back wall" and feel strange if I'm not there when settling down for final sight alignment. I shoot poorly enough when I don’t feel strange. I’m even worse if...

Sorry, I was stuck at work. I believe the last I read Mathews suggests backing the limb bolts out a few turns prior to pressing. Depending on the model and what type of threads the limb bolts have determines the recomended number of turns. I would check with a dealer on that. Alot of people don't bother to back them off, but I believe it is Mathews recomendation. In any even, don't press more than needed to get a string or cable off....

Quote: Originally Posted by mathewskiller i shoot a general and i had a qad on there for almost a year. no matter what i did i always had fletching contact. i even took it to my local bow shop and he told me to sell it and get a rip cord. i havent had any problems with it. you should try one. it has the capture bar on it also like the qad rests do. gonna try one next week

as the previous post said start close I say 10 feet keep moving the pin towards the error. arrow high move pin up, arrow low move pin down, arrow left move pin left, ect. when you get back to 20 yards use the top pin for 20 yards. 2nd pin 30 yards, 3rd pin 40 yards hope this helps