B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry | Forum profile

Kodak film is always a good deal ;-) RB Ps. I am looking to borrow a couple of "households" to get additional rebates for tons of boxes that I bought this year.

I add about 3 drops per litre, it's important not to add too mush as that canl cause foaming. A suggestion fill you dev tank with water add the spirals etc (no film) observe the air bells, then add just enough wetting agent to cut the surface tension, which releases the bubbles. I did that then also with some developer as I wanted to solve the problem once & for-all. It's a problem that is more likely to happen with home brew...

Patrick, glad you're doing well. On long printing times, well the orange mask may have a lot more to do with it than anything else. Seems to me that mask is awfully close to the color of a safelight. Obviously, it's not a good safelight filter, but I suppose that it blocks enough of the spectrum to which B&W papers are sensitive to make a big difference. I tried a few times to print a color negative onto B&W paper and...

There are so many threads on this question that you should get a good set of hits with the search function. PE

I've only gotten a couple prints I liked from the Seagull, but I already own it so I'll have to do more tests. I like that it comes in 5x7...I have to cut down most of my other FB papers. I got some old MGIV from Craigslist, haven't gotten around to comparing it yet (I have waaay too many papers!). Emaks is BEAUTIFUL, Slavich Unibrom is OK thus far (need more tests), would like to try Slavich Bromportrait as it's cheap for...

Quote: Originally Posted by RalphLambrecht Tom Split the two fixes into 3 minutes each. Reduce the in-between wash to just a minute or two (you don't need more). Extend the final wash to 10 minutes but precede it with a 2 minute hypo-clearing bath and the purple tint will be gone. I have none in my workflow (nor do I do a pre-soak). Does this suggest that Kodak TMY-2 is somehow less prone to purple tinting compared to Tri-X, or rather...

PE, Can you give me an idea in about what temperature I should start worrying about fogging? This is a great concern for me as I live in Central Florida.

I think you might get a better fit if you fit an equation to just the amount you must add to the indicated exposure time. Thus, (tadj - tmeas) = a * (tmeas ^ b) You can linearize it by the log transform to: log(tadj - tmeas) = log a + b log tmeas Just call log a = c and solve for b and c. Then a = 10^c. On log-log paper, this is a straight line with intercept a at tmeas =1 and it goes through 100^b at tmeas=100. I have found that for the films...

I can only speak to comparing it to Ilford MG IV-----in my view MG is a better looking paper. To me, MG has richer blacks (in Dektol) and just generally an all around glossier and smoother surface.

I have known about this rebates for months and I finally bought five 120 Plus-X rolls last week. I sent the rebate in a few days ago. Steve