|
More site info...
Gunsmithing & Troubleshooting | Forum profile
|
|
Forum profile page for Gunsmithing & Troubleshooting on http://www.1911forum.com.
This report page is the aggregated overview from a single forum: Gunsmithing & Troubleshooting, located on the Message Board at http://www.1911forum.com.
This forum profile page summarizes the general forum statistics such as: Users Activity, Forum Activity, and Top Authors, which are reported in either a table or graph below for a given reporting time period.
Additional forum profile information for "Gunsmithing & Troubleshooting" on the Message Board at http://www.1911forum.com is also shown in the following ways:
1) Latest Active Threads
2) Hot Threads for Last Week
Warning: These statistics are generated using 'best efforts' and can experience delays and reporting errors at times. Please note that such statistics do not constitute a forum's popularity and/or exact posting volumes at any given reporting period.
|
|
|
|
|
Posting activity on Gunsmithing & Troubleshooting:
|
|
Week
|
Month
|
3 Months
|
|
Threads:
|
215
|
706
|
1,898
|
|
Post:
|
862
|
3,072
|
8,316
|
|
|
Gunsmithing & Troubleshooting Posting activity graph:
|
Top authors during last week:
user's latest post:
Lower/barrel/GR fit is incorrect
Published (2009-11-09 20:28:00)
So took my barrel after realizing what was making everything stick, and put it on the lower, with the slide stop. Then slid in the FLGR. and the FLGR on the left side the last 1/4" sticks. So, should I A: whittle down the guide rod a little bit, B: open up the frame a little bit or C: stop workin now and see a smith/other. Thanks guys. Took me a while to try it this way, and it makes it stick really bad... starting to think that RIAs...
user's latest post:
Field strip problems
Published (2009-11-10 13:15:00)
Quote: Originally Posted by chefkill SA Champion operator. I can't remove slide, it seems to be sticking. I've field stripped this gun hundreds of times. What could be happening? Please help. The barrel link is wedging against the framegive it a bump on the muzzle with your hand (unloaded of course and checked first). LOG
user's latest post:
An Indexed Review of Gunsmithing...
Published (2009-11-05 23:53:00)
I had to go on a field trip to Dan Coonan's shop today. While sitting around after the gab fest I noticed this book. Building Your Gunsmithing Library: An Indexed Review of Gunsmithing Books This book is from Midway USA It reviews 104 books dealing with every type of 'smithing your little heart could desire. I was a little bummed to see many of the books on my shelves are out of print. So what if one of them is 54 years old. (this is...
user's latest post:
Gall Marks On Barrel?
Published (2009-11-08 22:47:00)
That is not galling. It is evidence of fitting to allow adequate link down clearance between the barrel and slide.
user's latest post:
1911 noob -- Very tight mag release
Published (2009-11-09 16:16:00)
Your lucky the mag catch is very easy to remove and work on. As you look at it from the right side you'll see what looks like a screw. Its not. Its a retainer with a stub that rides in a slot. To remeove the entire assembly push in on the mag release about 1/8 of an inch. At the same time with a PROPERELY fitting screwdriver turn the retainer counter clockwise about 1/4 turn. DO NOT FORCE anything. The entire thing should come out. Once...
user's latest post:
Field strip problems
Published (2009-11-10 17:00:00)
Can you see any daylight under the ejector? Look in the left side rail track is there a pin holding the ejector in place?
user's latest post:
Scratch my head
Published (2009-11-10 21:59:00)
Oops,couldn't figure out how to totally delete this.
user's latest post:
Change my Les Baer PII from 4.5...
Published (2009-11-08 01:50:00)
I agree with ZDragon .I installed a C & S sear spring and stoned the disconnect where it meets the trigger bow and it reduced my trigger by 1.5 # . This was on a S & W Doug Koenig . 4.5 to 3 .
user's latest post:
Bushing fit
Published (2009-11-08 16:05:00)
i hand fitted a tight stainless Wilson bushing in my Kimber CII two years ago. Just until recently i've been able to disassemble w/o a bushing wrench. It had finally loosen up after two years of shooting and field stripping.
|
|
|
|
Latest active threads on Gunsmithing & Troubleshooting::
Started 22 hours, 34 minutes ago (2009-11-11 14:20:00)
by shootingmonkey
A toothpick works well. Line up all of the holes with the toothpick and push it out with the pin.
Started 19 hours, 25 minutes ago (2009-11-11 17:29:00)
by log man
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigJon
It seems like the more I learn the more I see that I have yet to learn. The question that's currently swimmin' around in my head is why folks who are gettin' ready to build a 1911 don't go with a ramped barrel as the first choice. Most tilt-barrel pistols out there use ramped barrels, even in .45ACP...
Started 2 days, 1 hour ago (2009-11-10 11:08:00)
by BigJon
Hiya, Chris. Do you mind if a non-higher-up chimes in?
Take out the grip safety, and test again without it to make sure it's not binding.
Next, check the sear spring tension to make sure that you have enough.
Next, I'd check the pre-travel of the trigger. First, use the pistolwrench test - with the trigger all the way out, scribe a pencil line on the pad right up against the...
Started 19 hours, 43 minutes ago (2009-11-11 17:11:00)
by log man
Quote:
Originally Posted by BBBBill
... or not?
Lots of threads here directly or indirectly dealing with extractors and associated problems. After perusing as many as I could find, I still haven't seen a difinitive answer to my question. The original blueprints give dimensions and tolerances for the slide and extractor.
Doing the ...
Started 1 week ago (2009-11-05 11:23:00)
by Caspian17
Any custom work will not gain it "resale" value. Only a stock gun will hold it's value well, unless you have a top name smith do all the work. Plus Sig is kinda stylized differently so it would be a small niche market.
Started 2 days, 2 hours ago (2009-11-10 10:11:00)
by TFA303
As a fellow newcomer to this forum, allow me to summarize the forthcoming replies:
1) If it shoots fine, don't worry about it
2) There are ways to make it tighter
3) But if it shoots fine, don't worry about it
Started 1 day, 2 hours ago (2009-11-11 09:55:00)
by log man
That's very cool John, I've always liked the S&W rear sight app. looks so right.
LOG
|
|
Hot threads for last week on Gunsmithing & Troubleshooting::
Started 4 days, 2 hours ago (2009-11-08 10:25:00)
by hooks
Nice work Dave, ya just gotta luv women that buy guns for their man... got one myself.. This one is above and beyond, a custom handgun is the ultimate..
Started 2 days, 1 hour ago (2009-11-10 11:08:00)
by BigJon
Hiya, Chris. Do you mind if a non-higher-up chimes in?
Take out the grip safety, and test again without it to make sure it's not binding.
Next, check the sear spring tension to make sure that you have enough.
Next, I'd check the pre-travel of the trigger. First, use the pistolwrench test - with the trigger all the way out, scribe a pencil line on the pad right up against the...
Started 1 week ago (2009-11-04 18:02:00)
by guysmith
Flitz does a good job of polishing. Try hobby shops, and machine shop suppliers. Brownell's is a good source also, shop supplies are in the back of the catalog.
Started 1 week, 1 day ago (2009-11-03 21:48:00)
by kurmudgon
http://www.flitz.com/p-28-rifle-gun-knife-wax.aspx
Not a lot of hard info, but here is a link
Regards,
Kur
Started 5 days, 22 hours ago (2009-11-06 14:06:00)
by rustygunner
You'll never get a patch to come out clean. Some sort of evil is at work there, I just know it
Seriously, you'll run 100 patches through your barrel and still have some residue on them.
Started 1 week ago (2009-11-05 11:23:00)
by Caspian17
Any custom work will not gain it "resale" value. Only a stock gun will hold it's value well, unless you have a top name smith do all the work. Plus Sig is kinda stylized differently so it would be a small niche market.
Started 4 days, 15 hours ago (2009-11-07 21:24:00)
by skipsan
I'm doing exactly the same thing--4.5# to 3.5# (as well as adding a gold bead front sight) to my new PII. My approach was to turn it over to one of the local (Phoenix area) 1911 smiths for a trigger system tuning to get to the 3.5#. I was told by several amateur smiths that I could get there by adjusting the spring only, but elected to take the approach I did given the intial investment in the ...
Started 1 week, 2 days ago (2009-11-02 22:00:00)
by mark2734
King's would be great IF they still made parts. The parts side of the business stayed with the family when the gunsmithing part got sold. So far they have not made any parts and no idea if they ever will.
I would go with either a Greider or Harrison, both available from Brownells.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/cid=6...ducts/Trigg ers
Started 1 week, 1 day ago (2009-11-03 15:25:00)
by mark2734
Totally normal.
It took me awhile to understand as well. But think about it. When the slide cycles the only way for the slide and barrel NOT to interfer is for the two to be parallel. When the slide is forward and barrel feet ride up on the slide stop pin, which causes the upper lugs to engage the slide. This is what causes the "tilt" to the barrel when its in battery.
Hope this ...
Started 2 days, 2 hours ago (2009-11-10 10:11:00)
by TFA303
As a fellow newcomer to this forum, allow me to summarize the forthcoming replies:
1) If it shoots fine, don't worry about it
2) There are ways to make it tighter
3) But if it shoots fine, don't worry about it
|
|
